Saturday, 29 March 2008

Gone Caving

Benxi, Liaoning, China

I came to this small town (by Chinese standards - the head count is about 500,000) called Benxi near Shenyang to see the famous 本溪水洞 - the Water Caves of Benxi. They're not easy to get to actually. This is really off the beaten track. The Lonely Planet hardly covers them at all but some Chinese friends had told me it was worth going. A local girl then helped me find the right bus, which then drove out of town and stopped somewhere along the highway to let me off. The driver pointed along a little road to the entrance of the caves. There was nohing around for miles. I sensed getting back would be interesting. There wasn't even a bus stop.
The caves themselves are impressive. World Heritage, I believe. Priced accordingly. They're lit up with colourful spot lights and many formations have fanciful names. Of course, it's a bit distracting when you tour this majestic beauty in a noisy, diesel-powered boat and the tour guide never stops talking into her megaphone. It seemed she hardly needed to stop and breathe. It's a bit like watching a movie with the commentary on. This does seem to be what Chinese travel groups expect, though. Funny that most people still don't seem to listen. Maybe I just picked the wrong boat...
Getting back to the town was a challenge, as expected. With no bus stop I wondered where would be the best place to stand. So, I just stood at the roadside and waited. Two girls walked up and waited a short distance down the road from me. They were also coming from the caves. This ought to be the right place. But my backpack was getting heavy. I was going on straight to Dandong, my next stop, from here, so I had brought everything. A bus came, stopped next to them. They got on. I grabbed my stuff, hustled and waved. The driver shook his head. They were full now. Damn! I waited again. This time a bit further up the road. Nothing. Buses that passed didn't stop or were full. I guess, that's the problem of buses waiting until they're full before they even leave the station: it's hard to get a seat if you want to get on along the way. And I had a train to catch in a few hours. I started worrying. How much would it cost to take a car? Especially, since I didn't have much leverage to bargain.
I was almost at the point where I didn't care anymore when a bus finally stopped. I was wedged into the back row with my backpack squeezed under the seat in front. Just enough space for one person. Thank God I'm slim! My trip is going on after all. Chinese techno music all the way. But I realised it's daunting to be stuck somewhere on your own. That's the disadvantage of traveling alone, I guess.

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