Border Thoughts

Dandong, China

Standing on the border to North Korea is more than a bit surreal. It's interesting to imagine that over there, beyond the Yalu River everything is different. Different language, different people, different society. It mystifies me. I want to know what goes on on the other side of the water. Why the mystic appeal, I wonder. I've seen and crossed many borders - why is this one special?
Maybe it's because this is the first border I've encountered that I can't just cross and even getting the limited permission available these days is said to be very difficult and not even guaranteed. In fact, North Korea is known to be a very reclusive, even secretive country and like with everything secretive we would like to know what it is all about.
So, I followed my urge to get a taste and headed straight for Yalu River after arriving here in Dandong. It was evening and Dandong, like most Chinese cities, was ablaze with neon lights. All the greater was the contrast when I reached the river that divides the two countries. I had been warned (by my guide book) but gazing across the water into almost complete blackness was still unsettling. On one side China with its noise and lights, on the other side the mysterious North Korea shrouded in silence and a darkness pierced only by very few pin points of light. Even the single bridge linking the two countries is only lit on the Chinese side (which, I observe, is longer than the Korean one).
Then, today, I got another glace from Tiger Mountain Great Wall, which is right next to the border. From the highest peak of Tiger Mountain I looked out across the border lands - by daylight now. There wasn't much: a fence, a few houses huddled together, a large field still barren at this time of the year and a loose chain of guard posts. Hardly a soul in sight, even with the binoculars put up for the tourists here. Of course, the warning goes: "you may not see the soldiers but they are there." Still, I got the same impression as last night. On the Chinese side there was lots of life with roads and farms and industry while "over there" there was mainly silence interrupted only by the chugging of a diesel engine somewhere between the houses. Here, where the two countries are at their closest they are separated only by a narrow stream. Sometimes it can't be more than a meter or two, which is also why this place is known as 一步跨 - One Step Across. Actually, some locals told me, some North Koreans do come to the border once in a while to chat - and to exchange goods. Probably this is why, some six months back, the fence was erected on the North Korean side of the stream. Despite the friendship between the two countries such interaction doesn't seem popular. Still, the footpath leading down to the stream seems well used nonetheless. I'm sure the risk is great but if there's a will there's a way.
It struck me as interesting that while people on the opposite side of the border people live in seclusion, people on this side Chinese and foreign tourists go for a walk trying to catch a glimpse of just that seclusion. This has an even more interesting effect on the Chinese locals. Besides selling various "North Korean" souvenirs they've also realised that people would like to have a look at the inhabitants of this mysterious country. Near 一步跨 they shout across the river in Korean: "hey friend, come over for a while." Maybe they hope this will increase their chance for a sale. I felt a bit like in a zoo where you try to lure animals out so people can see them. This time nobody answered the call. Spectators were disappointed. The lions were not coming out. Back in Dandong, they also offer boat tours on the river that take visitors as close as possible to the North Korean bank. Makes me wonder if they'll throw meat...
Come evening it turns out that the Friendship Bridge is not only lit on the Chinese side, there's also a light show and neon display. After observing South Koreans looking down a bit on the Chinese here it seems more like the Chinese are doing the looking down. "Nana, we get a light show."
I feel a mild regret now that I only now remembered the option to visit North Korea. It's way too late to get a visa - takes about a month (and isn't guaranteed). So, this time I can only satisfy my curiosity dining at a North Korean restaurant (aptly called "Pyongyang") and looking out across the waters. I'll have to cross that bridge another time.