Laos, Luang Nam Tha
It's a culture shock again. I'm not entirely used to it anymore. I've been in China for so long that I take it for granted that people speak Chinese, signs are in Chinese, I know what to order in a restaurant and there are cheap Internet bars everywhere. Now this is Laos. Things work a bit differently here. There's a new language barrier and culturally I have new things to get used to and enjoy.
One thing happened while I was cycling around Luang Nam Tha today. This here is truly countryside, something you hardly get in China because of the huge population. I came past many small villages when while approaching one called Thongwa I heard loud music. I went to investigate and found there was some kind of celebration going on. A young man who spoke some English (he was learning English at the high school in Luang Nam Tha) invited me to the table where he and his friends were sitting. What was going on? A party. He couldn't explain further. It looked like the whole village was attending. Long tables were loaded with food, music was blaring and someone was singing, people were dancing and everyone shared small shot glasses of rice liquor. Actually, that seemed to be the main event: Someone would always come round with a bottle and a glass, fill the glass and hand it to the next person who then had to down the contents. Then the cup went to the next person. I found out quickly that refusing was useless. You sit, you drink. And it was strong stuff! Fortunately, there was still food to eat and soak up some of the alcohol. The food might have got less but there always seemed to be more alcohol. I'm not sure how long I stayed but people were getting seriously drunk. How long will this go on, I asked. Until evening, sometimes until the next day. Wow! People here are hardcore! In the end it got too much. Despite (or maybe because of) hospitality I feared I would not find my way back if I stayed any longer. My head actually hurts a bit as I write this. So, I excused myself and started my way back. A slogan from a popular poster at my university dorm comes to mind: Until death do us party.
On the way back I encountered the less attractive side of Laos. I encountered an older man on the road who said something to me. I didn;t understand but thought it was rude to just ignore him and ride on. I stopped and realised he had said "money". I said no. He had alreadu come up close and spotted the bulge in my shorts where my wallet is. He actually proceded to try and open the pocket. I stopped him but he just went on trying to push my hands out of the way. I shouted at him getting angry now. At the same time I started pedalling. Realised he was not getting my wallet he grabbed my crotch as I left and chuckled. I'm not sure what that was supposed to achieve. The mind boggles. I swore at him in Chinese.
Sadly I was wrong to mistrust the guys at the party but also wrong to trust an old man in the street. Of course, a certain caution is always needed but it's always also disappointing when you find out why. I hope to see much more of the good sides of Laos as I go.

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