St. Petersburg, Russia
St. Petersburg, or Piter as locals lovingly call it, is an exciting place to start a tour of Russia. There's a huge amount of impressions to gather and sometimes one pushes the other out.
The city itself is grand. Even far out of the centre streets are lined with imposing structures with turrets and pillars and iron sculptures. Sadly, a lot of the non-famous ones have started decaying. There are so many palaces that today many are just blocks of flats or offices with dark stair wells and gaping tunnels leading to shady backyards. I think if one day all this was renovated St. Petersburg would be a city of such grandeur that it would easily eclipse cities like Paris or Venice.
For reasons I detailed in this previous post I tried to be a bit selective about which attractions to enter. The Hermitage is well worth it. The Red and Gold Rooms are magnificent and the art collection from ancient Greece and Rome to 19th century is huge and comprehensive. Disappointingly, the Russian masters are found in a different museum and they closed before I could find the German section.
Peterpavlovsky Fortress I liked a lot - not so much the structure itself as the island in the Neva river from where it dominates the river. You get a great view of the opposite waterfront with the Admirality and the Hermitage. One evening they were performing choral singing here, so I stayed to listen. It spread a very sombre mood over the wind swept, darkening beach and reflected off the massive walls. I ended up sitting there long after the singing had stopped admiring the sunset. I took a photo for a very giddy young couple. I wonder why they were so happy.
The most interesting encounter by far was at the Ethnographic Museum. I wanted to learn a bit about Russian culture and ended up learning a lot more. In the Ukraine section I encountered a group of girls, art students painting the colourful national costumes. From the first time I dodged past their view one of them kept looking at me. They quietly giggled. When I tried to comment that I liked their work they didn't understand but a matron-like museum "guard" came over and started translating in broken English. She introduced me - interestingly she only ever introduced to me the girl that had been looking over, her name was Anya. She spoke neither English nor German but was very cute about it. Another girl, I was told, spoke some German but was too shy to try it. Then the matron asked if I had been to the Russian hall. Had I? Err ... Then she picked Anya and obviously told her to give me a tour. This produced a lot more giggling and the cutest of blushes. Off we went. For the next half hour or so we went through the Russian collection, talked at more than to each other communicating mainly through gestures and common words like "yes" and "no". She was from Rostov, art student of two years, here on a ten day practical trip. Had she painted this costume? No, but this and this one. She was proud to show me. I didn't want to keep her for too long since she was here to work and I said so. This is where the confusion started. She asked another matron to translate. This lady seemed even more eager to pair us up. What did I want from Anya, she urged. Did I want to go out with her? Did I want her phone number? Well .... That put me off a bit. Yes, the girl was very cute but I didn't want to seem like this was my only intention. I didn't want anything. Nothing, she translated (I think). That seemed to produce the wrong reaction. Gah! Wrong bloody emphasis! After a lot of other misunderstandings I let Anya return to her work. At least that was the right thing to do. The first matron appeared again and made her write down her phone number for me. More giggling, more blushing. The matron reminded me that Anya would have to work until 4 pm. Then I said goodbye. I found the situation so awkward that I didn't dare to go back until it was too late. "Girl bye-bye", the matron told me with an air of genuine disappointment. They really seemed to think I should have asked Anya out - on the most difficult date of our lives. I never did call her in the end. It would have been awkward with a translator on the phone. To this moment I wonder what was going on. Was she interested in meeting me or did she just go because the matron told her. Were the matrons trying to pair us up? Did they know something I didn't because of the language barrier? Should I have asked her out? Chestnuts, preciousss, chestnuts!
Update: Much later I was asked if I had ever had to rely on body language alone to communicate. Would have been interesting to try with Anya. Oh, well.
"Geschichten, die das Leben so schreibt", said Christian, a German guy I had met at the hostel warning me it was merely a phrase. He was in St. Petersburg for a language course. Very nice, generous chap. "Als Deutscher bist du hier der Chef", he also told me referring to meeting girls. As a German you're the boss here. He claims they really love German guys. I never managed to put it to the test.
I shared a room with him and a Finnish guy called Johani, who was also there for a language course. He had started a bold project. He wrote endless name cards in Russian with the intent to hand them to pretty girls on the metro. We dared him to try it saying it would never work. This method had never occurred to me. In the end, I think, the idea is so crazy and unusual that it might just work. When I finally got on the train to Moscow Johani saw me off. He hadn't handed out any cards yet but said he had to start immediately. He could possibly leave St. Petersburg without trying at least once. Best of luck, Johani. If it works I might give it a try next time. But watch out for their boyfriends.
So, as I leave for Moscow I take along a lot of fond memories of my first major stop and hope there will be many more to come.
Thursday, 26 July 2007
Wednesday, 25 July 2007
Cha-ching, Baby
St. Petersburg, Russia
One thing about Russia that occasionally even spoils the fun of being here are the prices. I clearly underestimated the cost of the country. While not quite as expensive as UK or Germany it still eats a nasty hole into my travel budget.
Food is quite pricy while portions are disappointingly small. To give people a fair warning they write the exact weight of every dish on the menu. To get your 300g average portion you can easily spend Western European prices in even simple Кофе's. I've started buying bread and toppings now to save some money on breakfast at least. Hot meals are pancakes (called Блин) and jacket potatoes (called Картошка) - available from small kiosks, cheap and actually quite nice.
Then there are the sights. They really hurt. There are seperate prices for Russians and foreigners - quite officially even. There are two signs stating entry prices. The Russian sign normally features an additional block with low prices that doesn't figure on the English language one. Typically the Russian prices are about one third of the foreigner prices. I hear they are not even allowed to sell Russian tickets to foreigners even if they wanted to. Do foreigners see more or get a service Russians don't get? On the contrary: Many labels and explanations are only in Russian.
Photography also costs extra - sometimes almost as much as the original entry price. Fortunately, it's not always inforced. So, I make it a matter of honour to take pictures where I can to get the most out of my ticket. Ha!
I've actually tried cheating asking for one ticket in Russian. But then they ask something in Russian - probably a filter question - and blow my cover. Nuts! So, the normal price to pay is some 300 rubles, almost 10 Euros! Ouch!
So I'm trying to minimise my entries to the really unmissable ones - one per day. But even taking a piss at a public toilet - a damn port-a-potty - costs 10 rubles! At least they don't charge according to the type of your business ... yet.
One thing about Russia that occasionally even spoils the fun of being here are the prices. I clearly underestimated the cost of the country. While not quite as expensive as UK or Germany it still eats a nasty hole into my travel budget.
Food is quite pricy while portions are disappointingly small. To give people a fair warning they write the exact weight of every dish on the menu. To get your 300g average portion you can easily spend Western European prices in even simple Кофе's. I've started buying bread and toppings now to save some money on breakfast at least. Hot meals are pancakes (called Блин) and jacket potatoes (called Картошка) - available from small kiosks, cheap and actually quite nice.
Then there are the sights. They really hurt. There are seperate prices for Russians and foreigners - quite officially even. There are two signs stating entry prices. The Russian sign normally features an additional block with low prices that doesn't figure on the English language one. Typically the Russian prices are about one third of the foreigner prices. I hear they are not even allowed to sell Russian tickets to foreigners even if they wanted to. Do foreigners see more or get a service Russians don't get? On the contrary: Many labels and explanations are only in Russian.
Photography also costs extra - sometimes almost as much as the original entry price. Fortunately, it's not always inforced. So, I make it a matter of honour to take pictures where I can to get the most out of my ticket. Ha!
I've actually tried cheating asking for one ticket in Russian. But then they ask something in Russian - probably a filter question - and blow my cover. Nuts! So, the normal price to pay is some 300 rubles, almost 10 Euros! Ouch!
So I'm trying to minimise my entries to the really unmissable ones - one per day. But even taking a piss at a public toilet - a damn port-a-potty - costs 10 rubles! At least they don't charge according to the type of your business ... yet.
Tuesday, 24 July 2007
Girls, girls, girls
Russian women, now that is a chapter of its own. Really something to write home about.
They seem very spirited, very confident, they have an air, an attitude maybe.
The ones I see here don't walk but almost stride. They seem tough, like they know what they want and how to get it. Yet there is also a vulnerable side to them which comes out when they deal with guys that they are close to.
It strikes me that young women, even young girls, here pay great attention to their appearance. And a great many are stunningly beautiful. Not head-turners but the neck-breaking type! Very fit, slim, lean, with - as it seems - unending, slender legs and big, bright eyes. They just don't come in "fat", it seems. Some, especially older women, may get a bit plump or chubby but you rarely see any fat people.
What's more, they seem to love to dress in the tightest clothes they can get their hands on. It doesn't leave much to imagination sometimes but they have the killer figure to back it up. They don't only dress to impress, they dress to tease! Actually, I had the impression that when they catch you looking they even put a little more sway in their hips or bounce in their step. And that bounce is so hypnotic. It's hard to find somewhere else to look. Especially, when so many beauties choose the parks I visit for sight-seeing to sunbathe in the tiniest bikinis or even topless. I may have come here for the culture and sights but I end up looking completely the other way. I admit it - I am weak. So, sue me! I understand better now why some guys fantasise so much much about Russian women.
I heard they dress up like that, work on their appearance that much because there's a lot of competition. Good jobs can depend a great deal more on appearance here, my source tells me.
The final amazing thing is that they manage to wear the shortest skirts I've ever seen, squeeze themselves into some of the tightest outfits available without looking cheap. Some people may beg to differ but I'll maintain they have a style. Maybe it's in the way the carry themselves, the way they wear the stuff - it's sexy, very sexy, it catches the eye and arrests the attention (let alone the weak heart!) but it's not cheap. It's not the clothes that make them look good (a technique they tried vainly in UK), it's them that make the outfits look hot!
On the other hand, Russian men have to work hard for such partners. Every evening I see endless couples going for a stroll, she holding his hand and in the other hand a flower - or an entire bunch of them. Again, I am told this has tradition: a man has to buy his girlfriend flower, maybe every evening. There does seem to be a great regularity here. Makes me wonder where they take the money from. Yeah, where do we take the money from to afford girlfriends?! I guess, they know it'll be worth it.
They seem very spirited, very confident, they have an air, an attitude maybe.
The ones I see here don't walk but almost stride. They seem tough, like they know what they want and how to get it. Yet there is also a vulnerable side to them which comes out when they deal with guys that they are close to.
It strikes me that young women, even young girls, here pay great attention to their appearance. And a great many are stunningly beautiful. Not head-turners but the neck-breaking type! Very fit, slim, lean, with - as it seems - unending, slender legs and big, bright eyes. They just don't come in "fat", it seems. Some, especially older women, may get a bit plump or chubby but you rarely see any fat people.
What's more, they seem to love to dress in the tightest clothes they can get their hands on. It doesn't leave much to imagination sometimes but they have the killer figure to back it up. They don't only dress to impress, they dress to tease! Actually, I had the impression that when they catch you looking they even put a little more sway in their hips or bounce in their step. And that bounce is so hypnotic. It's hard to find somewhere else to look. Especially, when so many beauties choose the parks I visit for sight-seeing to sunbathe in the tiniest bikinis or even topless. I may have come here for the culture and sights but I end up looking completely the other way. I admit it - I am weak. So, sue me! I understand better now why some guys fantasise so much much about Russian women.
I heard they dress up like that, work on their appearance that much because there's a lot of competition. Good jobs can depend a great deal more on appearance here, my source tells me.
The final amazing thing is that they manage to wear the shortest skirts I've ever seen, squeeze themselves into some of the tightest outfits available without looking cheap. Some people may beg to differ but I'll maintain they have a style. Maybe it's in the way the carry themselves, the way they wear the stuff - it's sexy, very sexy, it catches the eye and arrests the attention (let alone the weak heart!) but it's not cheap. It's not the clothes that make them look good (a technique they tried vainly in UK), it's them that make the outfits look hot!
On the other hand, Russian men have to work hard for such partners. Every evening I see endless couples going for a stroll, she holding his hand and in the other hand a flower - or an entire bunch of them. Again, I am told this has tradition: a man has to buy his girlfriend flower, maybe every evening. There does seem to be a great regularity here. Makes me wonder where they take the money from. Yeah, where do we take the money from to afford girlfriends?! I guess, they know it'll be worth it.
Russians
St. Petersburg, Russia
A few observations about Russians.
Things I heard initially were things like "suspicious", "cold", "unfriendly". Fortunately, as it has turned out it's not at all that bad. People have surely not been as approachable here as in other countries I've visited. Some people seem a bit glum or dull just staring at you. Some don't smile easily, some seem rough or crude. The tone here is surely rougher. That may be a matter of language - I think if you don't understand it Russian can sound a bit unfriendly even if it's not at all meant in such a way. Also, generally, it doesn't appear common to bother with pleasantries as much as in UK for example - "hello", "good-bye" and "thank you" are optional.
However, my general experience has been quite positive. Obviously, I'm a bit helpless as a foreigner not knowing the language. But I've had a number of people even go out of their way to help me understand. Like the travel agent here who made sure that I found the correct place to collect my onward train tickets. Or the waitress/owner of the cafe that even fetched raw ingredients from the kitchen to clarify the menu for me. Without that I would not have had lunch that day.
Another thing here is that young Russians seem to hang out in threes. Plus most of the time it's a mixed group. Couples are an exception, of course, but even they often seem to have exactly one mutual friend along. I hear it's because a guy and a girl hanging out together is seen much more serious here than in western Europe. A friendly get-together between a boy and a girl are out of the question, especially if one of them is already taken. So, they need what the Chinese call a big bulb - a third person to ensure both behave appropriately.
Now, in summer, you see lots of these trios and also larger groups meet in the many parks bringing drinks to relax. I like the atmosphere; old and young, couples and friends chatting, laughing as if every evening was a weekend. I guess it happens in Germany, too, but here it seems different. It reminds me of France - just that the red wine is replaced with vodka. It's a nice way to spend the evening. So, I join people on Admirality Square to write these lines.
A few observations about Russians.
Things I heard initially were things like "suspicious", "cold", "unfriendly". Fortunately, as it has turned out it's not at all that bad. People have surely not been as approachable here as in other countries I've visited. Some people seem a bit glum or dull just staring at you. Some don't smile easily, some seem rough or crude. The tone here is surely rougher. That may be a matter of language - I think if you don't understand it Russian can sound a bit unfriendly even if it's not at all meant in such a way. Also, generally, it doesn't appear common to bother with pleasantries as much as in UK for example - "hello", "good-bye" and "thank you" are optional.
However, my general experience has been quite positive. Obviously, I'm a bit helpless as a foreigner not knowing the language. But I've had a number of people even go out of their way to help me understand. Like the travel agent here who made sure that I found the correct place to collect my onward train tickets. Or the waitress/owner of the cafe that even fetched raw ingredients from the kitchen to clarify the menu for me. Without that I would not have had lunch that day.
Another thing here is that young Russians seem to hang out in threes. Plus most of the time it's a mixed group. Couples are an exception, of course, but even they often seem to have exactly one mutual friend along. I hear it's because a guy and a girl hanging out together is seen much more serious here than in western Europe. A friendly get-together between a boy and a girl are out of the question, especially if one of them is already taken. So, they need what the Chinese call a big bulb - a third person to ensure both behave appropriately.
Now, in summer, you see lots of these trios and also larger groups meet in the many parks bringing drinks to relax. I like the atmosphere; old and young, couples and friends chatting, laughing as if every evening was a weekend. I guess it happens in Germany, too, but here it seems different. It reminds me of France - just that the red wine is replaced with vodka. It's a nice way to spend the evening. So, I join people on Admirality Square to write these lines.
Sunday, 22 July 2007
First Impressions of Mother Russia
St. Petersburg, Russia
Occasionally, I ask myself the question that I'll probably ask myself many more times. Was I mad? I don't speak Russian. I don't read Russian. I can't even order from a menu properly. What in the blazes am I doing in Russia?!
Pretty much every step at the moment is an adventure. Then again, that's what I set off for, right? An adventure. And people did call me mad. And never underestimate how far a few pointing gestures and a big smile get you. Not many people here speak English - not out of my sample, at least (only one so far, hostel staff).
Sadly, this led to the missed opportunity to photograph two cute girls who (as it turned out) actually asked me for it.
On the other hand, I'm slowly getting the hang of capital letters. Some are similar to Greek and Roman letters with the same sound. Some look the same but sound different. Others can be deduced. It's like a puzzle game but things are beginning to make sense:
КОФЕ=cafe, РЕСТОРАН=restaurant.
Something to be proud of (a little bit). (back pat)
At least here, as a foreigner, you appreciate every Anglicism in the language.
The area around the hostel is nice. ПАРК ПОБЕДЫ - Park Pobedy - is beautiful. Frequented by locals and very few tourists (since it's a bit out of the way) on this warm, sunny Sunday. They walk, row a boat across the little lakes or just sunbathe.
Then there's buildings. All built for size, all built to impress. Columns, tall windows. Sadly, especially in side streets, many are in a state of disrepair. It gives neighbourhoods a certain melancholic character. Old memories of grandness slowing eaten up by decay. One thing is for sure. Russians went all the way with their architecture and city planning. Everything is on a grand scale. From metro stations featuring domed ceilings and cast iron sculptures to main streets - prospects - with three plus lanes each way plus tram tracks in the middle.
I am impressed.
Occasionally, I ask myself the question that I'll probably ask myself many more times. Was I mad? I don't speak Russian. I don't read Russian. I can't even order from a menu properly. What in the blazes am I doing in Russia?!
Pretty much every step at the moment is an adventure. Then again, that's what I set off for, right? An adventure. And people did call me mad. And never underestimate how far a few pointing gestures and a big smile get you. Not many people here speak English - not out of my sample, at least (only one so far, hostel staff).
Sadly, this led to the missed opportunity to photograph two cute girls who (as it turned out) actually asked me for it.
On the other hand, I'm slowly getting the hang of capital letters. Some are similar to Greek and Roman letters with the same sound. Some look the same but sound different. Others can be deduced. It's like a puzzle game but things are beginning to make sense:
КОФЕ=cafe, РЕСТОРАН=restaurant.
Something to be proud of (a little bit). (back pat)
At least here, as a foreigner, you appreciate every Anglicism in the language.
The area around the hostel is nice. ПАРК ПОБЕДЫ - Park Pobedy - is beautiful. Frequented by locals and very few tourists (since it's a bit out of the way) on this warm, sunny Sunday. They walk, row a boat across the little lakes or just sunbathe.
Then there's buildings. All built for size, all built to impress. Columns, tall windows. Sadly, especially in side streets, many are in a state of disrepair. It gives neighbourhoods a certain melancholic character. Old memories of grandness slowing eaten up by decay. One thing is for sure. Russians went all the way with their architecture and city planning. Everything is on a grand scale. From metro stations featuring domed ceilings and cast iron sculptures to main streets - prospects - with three plus lanes each way plus tram tracks in the middle.
I am impressed.
You are now leaving the American sector.
Vainikkala, Finland
Crossing the border to Russia at Vainikkala. Not sure what to expect. This will be interesting.
They put me in a car full of damn American pensioners on what I think is their first trip to Russia - maybe even abroad! I can't believe how long it took them to fill in the migration card and how often the same people asked the same questions. Yes, the visa no. is the visa ID, for crying out loud! And they all sound like Dubya. Without my music - a bit of Jay Chou with Xandria trimming I'd go nuts. Funny thing is they really look like small-town folk look like in the movies.
The first half of the border crossing was disappointing. A very blonde officer hardly looked at my passport. Took me a while to realise they must be the Finns doing their exit check. I'm leaving EU! "You are now leaving the American sector."
Well, right now, I'm rather smack in the middle of it, it seems.
I hope I'll still get a stamp in my passport!
[...]
Ok, now for the Russian border check. They start by taking away everyone's passports and carrying them in bunches to the back of the train. They look more serious than the Finns did. Their colours seem more faded, closer to black and white. In the same way the countryside changes to look a bit more faded, maybe I even dare say rundown. The colourful Finnish farmhouses have disappeared and have been replaced with concrete and corrugated iron buildings. I hadn't expected the change would be so abrupt. It's clear that Russia has a very different character from Finland (and Europe).
[...]
Hooray, got my first stamp (and my actual passport back). The Russian officer calling my name pronounced it better than most other foreigners so far. It seems that we've been waiting this side of the border to give officers time to check every passport. Let's get on then. I want to see more of Russia. I want lunch.
Saturday, 21 July 2007
Finnish gulls know the game
Helsinki, Finland
When I tried to fool a seagull pretending to throw it food it hardly moved and then seemed to wink at me knowingly. As if to say "Spassvogel" (German for "very funny"). Finnish gulls know the game.
Helsinki is a nice place. Before I left someone told me it was an ugly, grey little town. Quite the opposite actually! It's very colourful with beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture. Of course, no older than that - Finland, Suomi, is a young country, only founded in 1915 when Russia lost its power over it (probably due to the revolution).
I like Helsinki. It seems so diverse and metropolitan despite its small size (only a cinema I haven't found yet). Finnish food is also nice. A hearty breakfast with fried potatoes, sausage and omelette (served by an incredibly cute Asian girl - should have asked her out!). For dinner I had an expensive but tasty reindeer stew.
The only downside is that things are quite pricy. 7 Euros for a breakfast!
And Finnish girls are so beautiful! Practically all really are blonde (naturally or otherwise). Really bright blonde, nicely curvy, mostly on the slim side and many have bright blue eyes. It's like looking into a fragment of the blue Finnish sky.
Despite high prices for beer and generally alcohol the Finns seem to drink a lot - that was a bit sad. A group of Finnish truck drivers spent practically the whole trip on the ferry drinking. At least they stayed civilised and didn't bother other people. But on a Sunday morning you can see the traces of massive beer consumption in Helsinki's streets. Signs I know too well from UK.
Still, it's a very clean city and feels safe.
People may be shy but friendly.
And even what I saw on a short boat tour around Helsinki convinces me that the countryside must be dazzlingly beautiful. Little houses by the lakes, private saunas by the water side for immediate access. Blue lakes and bays, lush green forest. Hendrik has the right idea - next time I'll come back with a bike and camping gear.
When I tried to fool a seagull pretending to throw it food it hardly moved and then seemed to wink at me knowingly. As if to say "Spassvogel" (German for "very funny"). Finnish gulls know the game.
Helsinki is a nice place. Before I left someone told me it was an ugly, grey little town. Quite the opposite actually! It's very colourful with beautiful turn-of-the-century architecture. Of course, no older than that - Finland, Suomi, is a young country, only founded in 1915 when Russia lost its power over it (probably due to the revolution).
I like Helsinki. It seems so diverse and metropolitan despite its small size (only a cinema I haven't found yet). Finnish food is also nice. A hearty breakfast with fried potatoes, sausage and omelette (served by an incredibly cute Asian girl - should have asked her out!). For dinner I had an expensive but tasty reindeer stew.
The only downside is that things are quite pricy. 7 Euros for a breakfast!
And Finnish girls are so beautiful! Practically all really are blonde (naturally or otherwise). Really bright blonde, nicely curvy, mostly on the slim side and many have bright blue eyes. It's like looking into a fragment of the blue Finnish sky.
Despite high prices for beer and generally alcohol the Finns seem to drink a lot - that was a bit sad. A group of Finnish truck drivers spent practically the whole trip on the ferry drinking. At least they stayed civilised and didn't bother other people. But on a Sunday morning you can see the traces of massive beer consumption in Helsinki's streets. Signs I know too well from UK.
Still, it's a very clean city and feels safe.
People may be shy but friendly.
And even what I saw on a short boat tour around Helsinki convinces me that the countryside must be dazzlingly beautiful. Little houses by the lakes, private saunas by the water side for immediate access. Blue lakes and bays, lush green forest. Hendrik has the right idea - next time I'll come back with a bike and camping gear.
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