Beijing, China
This is actually about my landlord and a bit of a sad story. I wonder if this is typical of Chinese landlords or landlords in general. It went like this:
Before meeting him he was described as a true Beijinger. I still wonder if that was referring to his character or just his very thick Beijing accent. I was also told (related to the first remark or not) that he may seem a bit rough on the outside but was a good enough person.
When I first arrived I understood nothing of what he said both because of the accent and my extremely limited vocabulary. He seemed ok with my flat mates. When one of them moved out he was very flexible - along the lines of "if you need to stay don't worry".
Only when my Chinese became good enough to handle things myself did I begin to realise it wasn't all like this. Getting his contribution of RMB50 to our first big water payment (something he had collected from a previous tenant) required all three of us talking to him.
Then began the time when I met him by myself. I started realising that he was actually treating me like an idiot repeating things over unnecessarily. He didn't seem to grasp the difference of not understanding because of a language barrier and (as he thought) failing to understand his meaning. He also turned out to be quite pushy. Matters were always urgent. If we had arranged a meeting he would call the day before to remind me and on the day 5 to 15 minutes before the meeting to tell me he was already waiting and why wasn't I there yet. Annoyed I would in turn remind him of the time remaining to the agreed meeting and only meet him at that time.
I also began to see that if he could not reach one person he would call everybody else in the flat and rush them around in his search. On the other hand when there was something urgent for us we had to follow his rigourous schedule of work.
The best thing was, however, yet to come when I moved out this Tuesday. I had paid up to and including the 25th. I was hoping to stay that night and then catch my train early the next morning. I had received most of my deposit back - RMB900 out of RMB1000. Then there was viewing on that afternoon and I gave him the key and went to my last class telling him I still needed to sort out some things later. After class I was chatting to some friends when he called asking why there was still stuff in my place and I needed to move out immediately because somebody was coming to live. I was surprised and replied that I had paid for today. No, I was to move right now (it was 8 in the evening). He even seemed to say something about helping me move my things. At that I told him not to touch my belongings. I rushed back angry at the interruption to my good-byes and confronted him. Why was it so urgent now? I insisted that I had paid for today and the room should be mine until mid-night at least. No, he insisted, I was wrong. When he started listing some reasons, just excuses I believe, I even slapped his counting hand away and told him to get going and open the flat for me. At least, I needed some time to finish my packing. Then half an hour later he called again and I told him I would let him know when I was done. A short while later he even turned up unannounced with another guy who was to help him clean the room. I told them to wait outside. He now proceeded to argue with the other two tenants. There was a leaking tap in the bathroom and he told them it was our responsibility to get it fixed. I ended up shouting at him that it was his problem - that's how it was all over the world. No, I was wrong, but I didn't listen to his reasons. I was too furious. In the end everything was done and I moved my backpack outside. He came to say good-bye and welcome to come to China again and we were still friends. Yes, yes, bla, bla. I said good-bye to my flatmates and only then remembered the outstanding RMB100. I told him. No, there was no outstanding debt. I had stayed five more days and there was also something about an electricity bill I should have payed at the beginning. I was shocked. No, there wasn't any such thing - we had calculated this through! He insisted and called one of the flatmates to translate to me what I had already understood. He wouldn't cheat me for RMB100, would he? Bullshit! I told him again, irate now. Fine! He was also angry now, pulled out a bunch of notes and pressed a RMB100 note into my hand. He would show me that he wouldn't argue about such a minor matter. Pah! My major had after all been mathematics. Then I seemed to have not studied well. We were not friends after all, then. That made me laugh. At least, I had the satisfaction of having won this final battle, even though things had got a little ugly. Still, without knowing he had given me the reason to shout at him I had waited for for so long. Friends? With him? I still have to laugh at the idea.
Thursday, 27 March 2008
Wednesday, 26 March 2008
On the road again ...
Beijing，China
This is my last day in Beijing. My last evening as a resident of Wudaokou.
After being virtually kicked out by my landlord (see above), I've packed all my belongings into my big backpack again. Once again, I carry everything I possess on me. Nothing holds me back anymore as I hit the road once more.
The only difference is that this time there is no fixed schedule. Total freedom and at the same time totally on my own. If you plan everything in advance you may be tied down but it gives you a feeling of security, as well. It's actually a bit scary to think that for the next half year I will not have a home and friends will be whoever I meet on the way. "Where I lay my head is home."
At the same time it's also much more exciting than before. There's only my rough itinerary and schedule. The details I fill in as I go. As I leave my flat, my life, the remainder of my unwanted things behind my heart actually beats a bit faster. With every step I write my own history. This is what travelling is all about, what sets it apart from mere tourism. And as I go it's the old song by Chris Rea that rings in my ears:
"On the hard fast train
On the road to gain
[...]
There's only one place left to go
Auberge"
This is my last day in Beijing. My last evening as a resident of Wudaokou.
After being virtually kicked out by my landlord (see above), I've packed all my belongings into my big backpack again. Once again, I carry everything I possess on me. Nothing holds me back anymore as I hit the road once more.
The only difference is that this time there is no fixed schedule. Total freedom and at the same time totally on my own. If you plan everything in advance you may be tied down but it gives you a feeling of security, as well. It's actually a bit scary to think that for the next half year I will not have a home and friends will be whoever I meet on the way. "Where I lay my head is home."
At the same time it's also much more exciting than before. There's only my rough itinerary and schedule. The details I fill in as I go. As I leave my flat, my life, the remainder of my unwanted things behind my heart actually beats a bit faster. With every step I write my own history. This is what travelling is all about, what sets it apart from mere tourism. And as I go it's the old song by Chris Rea that rings in my ears:
"On the hard fast train
On the road to gain
[...]
There's only one place left to go
Auberge"
Tuesday, 25 March 2008
Too Damn Honest
Shanhaiguan, China
There was a slight mix-up with tickets today. Well, technically it wasn't so much a mix-up of tickets as of places. I blame the Lonely Planet but it does make clear the importance of checking the map of where you're going. I was going to Shanhaiguan. In the book the description of how to get there is in the same section as the one to Beidaihe, a different town in the area. So, I assumed they must be near each other. Both could also easily be reached from a hub called Qinhuangdao but it sounded like the bus first stopped in Beidaihe and then in Shanhaiguan. Since Shanhaiguan is not often serviced by trains from Beijing I just bought a ticket to Beidaihe and planned to take a bus from there.
The revelation came on the train while talking to another passenger. He was confused that I was going to Beidaihe. I told him: to take the bus to Shanhaiguan. He asked me why I didn't go straight to Qinhuangdao and take the bus there. Because Beidaihe is closer, no? No, it isn't. In the end he showed me on my own map. He was right, of course. Curses. Never mind, he said, just stay on the train. It would stop in Qinhuangdao next. Then how about my ticket? In China they check tickets at every station when you go out. Don't worry, he told me, you're a foreigner. When they stop you just pretend you don't speak Chinese and they will give up and let you go (we were having the conversation in Chinese). He laughed. That's China.
When we reached Qinhuangdao I did what he had told me. Of course, they stopped me. I tried to stare blankly. And just when they were about to wave me through, just as the man had said, I couldn't stop myself and asked them what was wrong. Then, of course, I got politely shown to their little office where I had to explain my mistake and pay 35 RMB for a ticket from Beidaihe to there.
Sometimes I do hate my honest self.
There was a slight mix-up with tickets today. Well, technically it wasn't so much a mix-up of tickets as of places. I blame the Lonely Planet but it does make clear the importance of checking the map of where you're going. I was going to Shanhaiguan. In the book the description of how to get there is in the same section as the one to Beidaihe, a different town in the area. So, I assumed they must be near each other. Both could also easily be reached from a hub called Qinhuangdao but it sounded like the bus first stopped in Beidaihe and then in Shanhaiguan. Since Shanhaiguan is not often serviced by trains from Beijing I just bought a ticket to Beidaihe and planned to take a bus from there.
The revelation came on the train while talking to another passenger. He was confused that I was going to Beidaihe. I told him: to take the bus to Shanhaiguan. He asked me why I didn't go straight to Qinhuangdao and take the bus there. Because Beidaihe is closer, no? No, it isn't. In the end he showed me on my own map. He was right, of course. Curses. Never mind, he said, just stay on the train. It would stop in Qinhuangdao next. Then how about my ticket? In China they check tickets at every station when you go out. Don't worry, he told me, you're a foreigner. When they stop you just pretend you don't speak Chinese and they will give up and let you go (we were having the conversation in Chinese). He laughed. That's China.
When we reached Qinhuangdao I did what he had told me. Of course, they stopped me. I tried to stare blankly. And just when they were about to wave me through, just as the man had said, I couldn't stop myself and asked them what was wrong. Then, of course, I got politely shown to their little office where I had to explain my mistake and pay 35 RMB for a ticket from Beidaihe to there.
Sometimes I do hate my honest self.
The Golden Nail
I've finally done it: My blog is now finally up to date. After posting lots of newer stuff ahead of old stuff and lots of back dating all past entries into my book have now been transcribed.
Hallelujah!
It feels a bit like the Golden Nail Celebration!
Hallelujah!
It feels a bit like the Golden Nail Celebration!
My school - a review
Beijing, China
So, what have I been doing all this time - except for the occasional field trip? 当然学汉语吧 - learning Chinese, of course. Came a long way to do it, too. So, essentially I spent most afternoons (except weekends) at a small language school in Beijing's Haidian District called 地球村学校 or Global Village Language School.
And what's it like? Well, it's been essentially like going back to school. Only that this time I chose to; and I could choose my classes. Classes are generally fairly small with an average of six or seven students (although popular ones have way more than that). Lessons go by text book spending one lesson going over new words for that chapter of the book and a second lesson reading and understanding dialogues and excercises. Lessons are taught entirely in Chinese (I believe most of the teachers speak only little English or Korean). Even though this is a bit daunting at first you get used to it quicker than you think. The teachers I had spoke a very clear standard Chinese. I also believe the school doesn't really encourage the use of other languages so as to make the lessons fair for all students. Often the teachers also encourage having a subject related chat (in Chinese, of course), which can be very interesting depending a bit on your class. In our classes the atmosphere was very relaxed - in a way most students were adults (or close to it), so we could have quite interesting conversations. Then you can still go home and do some homework.
Now, how was the school? I'll answer this by category:
Firstly, some bad news. As you can already see from the website, the school is mainly aimed at Korean students. Information in English is extremely limited. Schedules are only in Chinese (if I could read that I wouldn't be here!). Office staff also don't speak English, so, signing up for my first lesson was an adventure - and I could already speak a bit. Later me and a classmate helped a Western girl, who was completely lost. English might help to broaden their customer base.
Now, there's a small cafeteria with hot and cold food which caters mainly for Korean tastes (if you like it) and is a bit pricy for what they offer (I can reheat food at home, right?).
The study room can be quite crowded - especially before HSK exams, at which time the pressure seems tangible in the air.
Their computer room is functional at best - the machines are old and overloaded with viruses. It hurts any IT guy's heart to see this kind of neglected infrastructure!
Now for the brighter side:
The tuition fees have just gone up - by a whooping 25%! Still, Global Village works out much cheaper than attending a course at university.
And more flexible: you can choose from a range of classes of different levels, classes of the same level are often offered at several times during the day, so you can choose a convenient time. Also, new courses begin every month, so you don't need to arrive at the start of term. If a level or time doesn't suit you just wait for a week or two and see what new classes are put on.
I've saved the best for last, of course: that's the teaching. It out-weighs all possible disadvantages. The teaching I've experienced was simply excellent. Teachers are enthusiastic, well prepared, know their stuff, are patient and thorough making sure every student understands the lesson.
So, my overall impression is that, although there may be some disadvantages to the school, it was well worth every yuan I paid.
So, now that my time here has come to an end, all that is left now is to thank my teachers Ms Peng, Ms Meng and Ms Wu. Special thanks go Ms Peng for being the most beautiful, cutest but also funniest teacher ever. Ms Meng on the other hand really challenged my listening comprehension speaking quite fast but in doing so helped me improve a lot and her lessons always keep you on your toes. They were all amazing at their job. I wish I had had teachers like them back in the days when I had to go to school! It was a joy going to class every day. I hope to be back in Beijing soon and continue my lessons with them. Thanks to them, I'll miss going to school for the first time.
非常感谢你们！我一定会想你们！
So, what have I been doing all this time - except for the occasional field trip? 当然学汉语吧 - learning Chinese, of course. Came a long way to do it, too. So, essentially I spent most afternoons (except weekends) at a small language school in Beijing's Haidian District called 地球村学校 or Global Village Language School.
And what's it like? Well, it's been essentially like going back to school. Only that this time I chose to; and I could choose my classes. Classes are generally fairly small with an average of six or seven students (although popular ones have way more than that). Lessons go by text book spending one lesson going over new words for that chapter of the book and a second lesson reading and understanding dialogues and excercises. Lessons are taught entirely in Chinese (I believe most of the teachers speak only little English or Korean). Even though this is a bit daunting at first you get used to it quicker than you think. The teachers I had spoke a very clear standard Chinese. I also believe the school doesn't really encourage the use of other languages so as to make the lessons fair for all students. Often the teachers also encourage having a subject related chat (in Chinese, of course), which can be very interesting depending a bit on your class. In our classes the atmosphere was very relaxed - in a way most students were adults (or close to it), so we could have quite interesting conversations. Then you can still go home and do some homework.
Now, how was the school? I'll answer this by category:
Firstly, some bad news. As you can already see from the website, the school is mainly aimed at Korean students. Information in English is extremely limited. Schedules are only in Chinese (if I could read that I wouldn't be here!). Office staff also don't speak English, so, signing up for my first lesson was an adventure - and I could already speak a bit. Later me and a classmate helped a Western girl, who was completely lost. English might help to broaden their customer base.
Now, there's a small cafeteria with hot and cold food which caters mainly for Korean tastes (if you like it) and is a bit pricy for what they offer (I can reheat food at home, right?).
The study room can be quite crowded - especially before HSK exams, at which time the pressure seems tangible in the air.
Their computer room is functional at best - the machines are old and overloaded with viruses. It hurts any IT guy's heart to see this kind of neglected infrastructure!
Now for the brighter side:
The tuition fees have just gone up - by a whooping 25%! Still, Global Village works out much cheaper than attending a course at university.
And more flexible: you can choose from a range of classes of different levels, classes of the same level are often offered at several times during the day, so you can choose a convenient time. Also, new courses begin every month, so you don't need to arrive at the start of term. If a level or time doesn't suit you just wait for a week or two and see what new classes are put on.
I've saved the best for last, of course: that's the teaching. It out-weighs all possible disadvantages. The teaching I've experienced was simply excellent. Teachers are enthusiastic, well prepared, know their stuff, are patient and thorough making sure every student understands the lesson.
So, my overall impression is that, although there may be some disadvantages to the school, it was well worth every yuan I paid.
So, now that my time here has come to an end, all that is left now is to thank my teachers Ms Peng, Ms Meng and Ms Wu. Special thanks go Ms Peng for being the most beautiful, cutest but also funniest teacher ever. Ms Meng on the other hand really challenged my listening comprehension speaking quite fast but in doing so helped me improve a lot and her lessons always keep you on your toes. They were all amazing at their job. I wish I had had teachers like them back in the days when I had to go to school! It was a joy going to class every day. I hope to be back in Beijing soon and continue my lessons with them. Thanks to them, I'll miss going to school for the first time.
非常感谢你们！我一定会想你们！
Thursday, 20 March 2008
Do strange people attract more strange people?
Beijing, China
A guy bumped into me in the restaurant today while I was having dinner with a friend. As I turned to face him a tall, lanky young Chinese man bent down to my sitting level. His clothing looked old, a bit worn maybe, together with his hair shaved at the neck but longer at the top it gave him the appearance of a punk. Not entirely pleasant, especially because when he started talking to me it became obvious that a) he might be drunk or stoned and b) a lot of his teeth were missing. I'm used to random people here trying to talk to me because I'm a foreigner, so I indulged him.
"You're a foreigner", he said in quite good English. "Yes", I answered patiently.
"Deutsch", he shot at me. That had me impressed. Few people ever mention Germany when they try to guess my nationality.
"You are from Munchen", he continued. No. "Frankfurt?" No. "Bonn." Yes, more impressed this time. That was another first. Few people here even know Bonn exists. "When Germany was apart Bonn was the Western capital", he proceeded to explain.
"I know one German rock band", he then announced. This time I actually played along, interested now. "Which one?" "Rammstein." He rolled the r like a Prussian. Wow! He knew even them. He went on to name several of their songs. His German pronunciation was quite good, too.
Then he turned to my friend. "Are you Chinese", he asked in Chinese. She gave me an exasperated look. That happens a lot - she is from Chinese background but not nationality. Hardly anyone gets her nationality right. She shook her head. "Japanese", he continued in English again. No. "Korean?" Those are the usual guesses. Then he changed course: "Malaysian?" No. But now I was curious, so I encouraged him to try again. "Indonesia?" Correct.
"Then you're catholic", he shot at her, "praise God." That was yet another surprise: very few people know that the Chinese minority in Indonesia is largely catholic.
Shortly afterwards he excused himself. "Auf Wiedersehen", he said, again in quite clear German, gave us another toothless smile and left. My friend relaxed.
At first, I didn't think much of it but then she said to me: "That was scary. How could he just guess all these things?" That had me thinking. For the rundown punk he appeared to be his education seemed very good. He spoke quite good English and some German. He knew about a lot of unusual random facts. Also, he seemed incredibly good at guessing things about us. It reminded of things, stories about psychics who just by a look or a touch will know things about you, receive a short insight into your mind. Now, this guy could just have been some crazy punk, alcoholic, homeless; and surely in the 1.5 billion people here there has to be someone who likes Rammstein and is able to guess my nationality. But right there, right then? A less than usual nationality correct at the first try, an unusual, hardly known hometown correct after only two wrong attempts, a band that happens to be my favourite. And the facts about my friend, as well. Thinking about it now it feels not so much as if he was guessing but rather working his way to the truth. Believe in it or not but that conversation now seems very surreal. Even among other strange encounters this one was certainly unique. Just think, what if ...
A guy bumped into me in the restaurant today while I was having dinner with a friend. As I turned to face him a tall, lanky young Chinese man bent down to my sitting level. His clothing looked old, a bit worn maybe, together with his hair shaved at the neck but longer at the top it gave him the appearance of a punk. Not entirely pleasant, especially because when he started talking to me it became obvious that a) he might be drunk or stoned and b) a lot of his teeth were missing. I'm used to random people here trying to talk to me because I'm a foreigner, so I indulged him.
"You're a foreigner", he said in quite good English. "Yes", I answered patiently.
"Deutsch", he shot at me. That had me impressed. Few people ever mention Germany when they try to guess my nationality.
"You are from Munchen", he continued. No. "Frankfurt?" No. "Bonn." Yes, more impressed this time. That was another first. Few people here even know Bonn exists. "When Germany was apart Bonn was the Western capital", he proceeded to explain.
"I know one German rock band", he then announced. This time I actually played along, interested now. "Which one?" "Rammstein." He rolled the r like a Prussian. Wow! He knew even them. He went on to name several of their songs. His German pronunciation was quite good, too.
Then he turned to my friend. "Are you Chinese", he asked in Chinese. She gave me an exasperated look. That happens a lot - she is from Chinese background but not nationality. Hardly anyone gets her nationality right. She shook her head. "Japanese", he continued in English again. No. "Korean?" Those are the usual guesses. Then he changed course: "Malaysian?" No. But now I was curious, so I encouraged him to try again. "Indonesia?" Correct.
"Then you're catholic", he shot at her, "praise God." That was yet another surprise: very few people know that the Chinese minority in Indonesia is largely catholic.
Shortly afterwards he excused himself. "Auf Wiedersehen", he said, again in quite clear German, gave us another toothless smile and left. My friend relaxed.
At first, I didn't think much of it but then she said to me: "That was scary. How could he just guess all these things?" That had me thinking. For the rundown punk he appeared to be his education seemed very good. He spoke quite good English and some German. He knew about a lot of unusual random facts. Also, he seemed incredibly good at guessing things about us. It reminded of things, stories about psychics who just by a look or a touch will know things about you, receive a short insight into your mind. Now, this guy could just have been some crazy punk, alcoholic, homeless; and surely in the 1.5 billion people here there has to be someone who likes Rammstein and is able to guess my nationality. But right there, right then? A less than usual nationality correct at the first try, an unusual, hardly known hometown correct after only two wrong attempts, a band that happens to be my favourite. And the facts about my friend, as well. Thinking about it now it feels not so much as if he was guessing but rather working his way to the truth. Believe in it or not but that conversation now seems very surreal. Even among other strange encounters this one was certainly unique. Just think, what if ...
Monday, 10 March 2008
Servant of the Dynasty
Beijing, China
I've finally got a Chinese name. After countless people have asked for it and subsequently memorised my German one I've finally done it. And I'm actually really happy about it.
With pride I'd like to introduce...
魏天拜
Why this name?
Well, the surname 魏 (Wei) sounds a bit like my German surname. Secondly I like the sound of it. Finally, it has history - like most surnames in China. During the period of the Warring States when seven warlords battled to reunite China one of the kingdoms was the Kingdom of Wei. Later during the period known as Three Kingdoms around 220 AD China again broke into three pieces; one of them was again called the Kingdom of Wei (established by famed general Cao Cao, later ruled by Sima Yi and his descendants).
The given name 天拜 (Tianbai) was actually generated by an online name generator. Now, before you roll your eyes hear me out. The generator picks characters based on the pronunciation of your surname and given name. You can also specify a topic you want your name to be based on (like "intelligence" or "strength", etc.). Now, as it happens 天 (tian) is heaven or sky, 拜 (bai) can be obedience. So, together we loosely have "Obedient to Heaven" or maybe "Servant of Heaven". Tobias on the other hand comes from Hebrew and means "God is good". A good match, isn't it?
Together I also like the sound of the name. So, there it is and let it be known in all corners of the empire!
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